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Matchbox Dicast cars

by: matchboxmick( 1118Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 1000 Reviewer
23 out of 27 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 3178 times Tags: TOYS | DIECAST | MODELS | HOBBIES | MATCHBOX


Some of the points on selling Matchbox diecast also apply to any other brand such as Dinky, Corgi, Trax etc. I have coellected Matchbox cars for more years than I care to remember and am one of those devout 'Yesteryear' collectors but also collect anything in the ranges that take my fancy.

When selling there are several points to remember to acheive a good price

1. RARE: I see this description bandied about on every other listing. Listed at 99c how can it be rare, please do your homework first and don't put this word there because YOU think it is - I will not even open an ad with this heading as nothing turns me off quicker. A rare item at 99 cents means the seller is totally cuckoo or has simply no idea.

2..MINT: Is it really mint - meaning no chips scratches or missing decals? Mint means exactly as it came from the factory possibly 40 to 50 years ago. Most collectors grade their models with 10 the absolute best right down to 1 although most collectors will not go past 7 or 8. Very few models even factory direct are grade 10 as these were mass produced items for kids to play with but is generally accepted as top quality.

3.BOXES: Boxes should be clean and crisp without creases or end flaps missing to be described as mint. Any of the previous or sellotape sticky residue will decrease the value of a box. When described as 'MINT & BOXED' we are looking at a top of the range item. A model without a box or 'LOOSE' will lose 50% of it's value in most cases unless we are talking about an extremely rare variant / version.

4. PHOTOS: Most collectors are variant collectors so good close up photos are required. Preferably the base, side on and top view are ample. Please make them sharp - most cameras nowadays have a Macro setting so please use it. I see loads of fuzzy ones that you can just about make out what the model actually is - just a blur of colour and you expect people to bid on this.

5. LISTING: Many are put under 'VINTAGE' when in fact they are made well after 1970. Nothing pains me more than wading through endless listings that are not applicable to the catergory - again homework is the key. Ebay provide pre 1970 and modern catergories so use them.

I suppose what I am really saying is be honest in your opinion of the item. Nothing will turn buyers off quicker than garbage descriptions and by being honest most will add you to their watchlists. Not all can afford the heady prices of 'Mint & Boxed' so it pays to check with previous sales for a rough idea of condition. You will probably find your sales increasing and probably a rise in your prices instead of sitting there unsold at the auction end.

I just see so many auctions end with a high start price listed for a model that has half it's paint missing or various other bits missing and the seller tells me that it is old and played with, but fine and would grace my shelf on display - the truth is I wouldn't give it houseroom and my junker box has better models than this. Most collectors will not touch a repaint and this is sometimes hard to work out as there are many good restorations about. It is a thing you learn over time and just by looking at a good close up photo, I could tell you the repaint from the original - they have a certain worn sheen to them like a bronze statue with a patina.

To check out a model use a site like 'matchboxmeories' or 'dfwbeckett.net' where most of the ranges have been listed and pictures shown but no prices. Good books to use as a reference are 'Ramseys Guide to British Diecast 10th edition, any of Charlie Mack's guides and The Yesteryear Book. You can find most of these for sale on Ebay pages or a good store like Amazon as some are currently out of print. Please realise that price guides are only that and most are dated the moment they hit the bookshelves - what they do though is give you a good idea of the rarity factor between models and what makes a model worth $5 look almost the same as one costing $500! Belive me it happens - a small Sunbeam motor cycle combo with green plastic sidecar seat fetches around $40+ - make that seat black and we are talking $1000 +

Do your homework first!!!!

Good luck with your selling.


Guide ID: 10000000002109403Guide created: 11/10/06 (updated 21/10/09)

 
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